Pre-owned Chloé shoes

Chloé vintage: archive models and how to recognize them

At Chloé, one date matters more than any other, and it's written by the house: wedges were introduced in March 2006 and became its signature shoe. This marks the birth of its footwear identity—and it means that the strictly vintage period, the one before 2006, is precisely that: before the signature shoes. The right word at Chloé is therefore often archive rather than vintage: the Susanna, launched in 2008, is an icon, not a vintage piece.

• Stella McCartney1997-2001
• Phoebe Philo2001-2006
• The Living Archive2008-2016

Chloé archive models

• Susanna 2008 still in production

  three straps across the instep fastened with round buckles, studded with flower-shaped studs, elongated toe, Cuban heel

• Wedges 2006 family still available

  wooden or cork platform and wedge heel, 1970s spirit

• Rylee discontinued

  graphic cut-out upper, leather lacing, stacked leather Western heel

• Lauren still in production

  signature scalloped edge on the opening line, round toe, lamb nappa leather

• Mike official product page still online

  three thin straps tied in knots, small round brass buckle on the ankle strap

• Pirate Thigh-High Boots 2009 discontinued

  soft shaft foldable below the knee

Recognizing and dating a pair of Chloé

• The product reference is the best dating tool for the house — and that's fortunate, Chloé doesn't have a date code. Its structure: the letters CHC or CH, two year digits, a season letter, a model number, a color code. The block 134 appears on all Susanna models, regardless of the year: it's the model number.
• Two caveats we acknowledge: this interpretation is deduced from references published by the house, not from an official grid; and the prefix changes from CHC to CH without dating anything, both coexist.
• Materials confirm: wooden or cork wedges for 2006-2012; flower studs and Cuban heel for 2008-2016; cut-outs and lacing for 2016-2019.
• See by Chloé is a distinct line: a See by Chloé shoe is not a Chloé.

What to look for before buying

• The Susanna's studs are the first thing to look at. They are plated flower-shaped studs: the plating can pit, oxidize, and lose its gilding, and replacing them identically is almost impossible — the shape is proprietary. A pair with pitted studs remains very wearable, but we mention it. Conversely, a manual polishing of still-healthy studs radically changes the appearance of a pair.
• The glazed lamb nappa is very supple, thus very prone to marking: we nourish and recolor, but the original glazing cannot be recreated and the result is more matte. We announce this.
• The stacked leather western heel crumbles leaf by leaf: dye and edge wax give an excellent result.
• The Lauren's calfskin sole is very thin and can wear through at the forefoot: a rubber sole protector is the right answer.
• A boot shaft stored folded retains the mark: on supple nappa, the crease cannot be removed.

What makes a pair valuable

• A named model — Susanna, Rylee — rather than an anonymous sandal.
• On a Susanna, the black version with gold studs, and the condition of the studs.
• A runway provenance when established.
• Untouched leather, or a disclosed repair.
• A common size, the original box and dust bag.

Sources: chloe.com (histoire de la maison, introduction des compensées en mars 2006, fiches Susanna, Lauren, Rylee et Mike), Vogue France (Susan devenue Susanna), 1stDibs. Updated on 8/31/26.